HOW OUR KITS ARE MADE:

Every kit starts its life on a sketchpad, from there it is off to a specialized CAD program where the design is refined. When we are happy with the overall design, the CAD model is sent out to a rapid-prototype service provider or run in house on our 4 axis CNC-mill and made into a real world object. The fun does not stop there, we need to clean the master and add any finishing details before we produce our molds. All kits are produced using high quality resin and designed to be durable on the gaming table. We use the latest casting techniques to minimize any bubbles in the resin and molds. We remove the majority of the vents and sprue’s and give a head start to your model clean up. Every kit has a web published instruction manual, explaining what to do and what not to do, to successfully assemble your new masterpiece. We provide suggestions for products applicable to your kit at the bottom of the instructions page.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT RESIN MODELS:

What is a resin model? Resin is a term used to describe a plastic resin that starts its life as a liquid. The two pat liquid is mixed and poured into a mold cavity it then hardens in the mold to form a hard plastic component. Not quite as strong as the plastic injected materials found in most model kits, you may find in the stores. Some care is needed when working with a resin model. It can be cut, sanded, drilled and even reformed to a small degree using heat. Polyurethane is used in the manufacture of many or your household items, ranging from computer cases to vehicle dashboards.

HEALTH CONCERNS:

Polyurethane resin in its hardened state still may pose a health concern if ingested and is not recommended for children under the age of 14. When working with a resin model it is always important to take some basic precautions, especially when sanding the model. Inhaling resin dust is hazardous but with the proper precautions, these risks can be eliminated. It is recommended that you wear a filter mask and safety goggles while sanding and that all sanding be done on wet sandpaper to reduce the amount of resin dust. If you experience any health concerns, it is advised that you contact a physician immediately.

MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE:

My father often quoted this mantra to me. Meaning take your time and make sure that you are not doing something you will later regret. This is true with building any model kit and especially so when working with a resin model. Many of the components may need to be trimmed to length. Patients and forethought will save you a lot of work trying to fix an error. Relax and enjoy the build.

TOOLS:

This is a list of some useful tools to aid you in your build. *The materials listed, are readily found here in the USA. You may need to search the web to find suitable replacements if you live in another country.* (Filla glue and Kicka pen can be purchased in the UK.)

Razor Knifes (X-acto or other brand)

Rotary tool with assorted tips. (Dremel or other brand)

Sand paper or sanding film (Various grits from 400 to 1200)

Small hobby saw or jewelers saw (Rotary cut off wheel may be used)

Small hobby sprue cutters or small wire cutters.

Glue (Recommended: Gorilla Super Glue or Filla-Glue with Kicka-Pen or Devcon 2-ton or 5 minute epoxy)

Dish washing detergent (Recommended: Dawn)

Primer (Recommended: Sandable automotive primer DAP Duplicolor).

Seam filler (Recommended: Magic Sculpt or Millitput)

Optional: If you intend on pinning your kit you will need metal pins and a suitable drill bit, drill and metal pins.

PRE PREP:

This is VERY important, like any house, it benefits from a strong foundation and any prep work skipped or hastily done will show in your final model. The first step to pre-prep is to clean and de-grease your model. Fill a large tub or basin with warm water (not hot) and add dish detergent in an amount as if you were washing dishes. Use a toothbrush or other similar brush and lightly scrub all surface. Place parts in a warm water rinse to remove any trace of the dish detergent. Test primer one of the model components and allow drying time, then lightly drag your fingernail over the part. If the primer removes easily then you need to re-clean all the parts and try again. DreamForge-Games uses mold release with all its castings. This will leave an oily residue that will not allow paint to stick to the surface. Should you find that you forgot to clean your model or find areas that are not cleaned well enough; you can strip the primer from the model using a kitchen detergent. We recommend Simple Green followed with another warm water bath with Dawn dish detergent. Once you are satisfied that all the oils have been cleaned from the parts you can begin removing the vents and sprue’s from the parts. Vents and sprue’s are left over materials that are part of the resin casting process when liquid resin is poured into the mold cavity. It is best to use a sharp razor knife, rotary tool or small hobby sprue cutters to remove the excess material. Use a high grit sand paper to smooth any areas that require additional attention. Once the basic cleaning and surface clean up is completed, test assemble your parts. Make sure that they like up correctly and that none of the components have warped or are bent in a way that will cause a gap in the assembled model. If you find a component that is bent, run it under hot water for a short time. This will soften the resin just enough to allow it to be bent. Careful attention is needed while bending the part. Resin is fairly brittle and prone to breaking if too much force is applied. When the resin cools, it will retain its new shape. Once you are satisfied with the fit and finish of your parts, it is time to begin assembly.

ASSEMBLY:

I prefer to lightly primer the model at this point. This will allow you to see any imperfections and test the pre-prep cleaning to see if there is an oily residue that will destroy your final paint job. At this point, you can go back and clean up the models surface or strip the primer from the model if there are problem areas. I prefer Magic Sculpt for filling any bubbles in the resin due to the fact it sands at nearly the same rate as the resin and I have found it very easy to work with, unlike Green-stuff.

TO PIN OR NOT TO PIN:

There are differing opinions on the use of pins in resin models. Pinning is a term used for drilling a small hole and inserting a metal pin to join two components. It has been my experience that a properly prepped model and the use of one of the glues recommended above can provide just as much strength as pinning. One of the tricks I use is to roughen the surfaces that are to be glued by scoring the surface with a razor knife in a crosshatch pattern on both adjoining surfaces. Alternatively, using a rough grit sandpaper to scratch up the surfaces. When using Epoxy glue, you will want even a rougher surface. Using a small pin drill to add dimples or areas for the glue to grab. If you find an area after the model has been assembled that needs more strength, you can pin the part after it is assembled and fill over the hole with Magic Sculpt or Milliput.

GLUES:

Choosing the right glue is very important; Superglue (cyanate) is too brittle and will be prone to break. I prefer Gorilla Superglue as it has a component that adds flex before breaking. I also highly recommend Filla-Glue and the Kicka-Pen. If neither is available, a two-part epoxy found at your local hardware store, Devcon 2-ton or 5-minute epoxy works very well and is highly recommended. Just be sure to give the epoxy something to grip onto by scoring the surface or drilling small dimples into the surface. Using epoxy and a dill you can make what I call a cheaters pin, drill a small hole in each part so that the holes line up with each other and fill both holes with epoxy and then glue the rest of the part together.

PRE PAINT PREP:

Primer your model completely, I prefer Duplicolor Sandable Automotive Primer #1692. It goes on well, grips well and pulls up tight to the details without runs. Fill in any surface blemishes with Magic Sculpt or Milliput and lightly sand to a perfect surface. A light coat of primer to seal the area, and you are ready for paint.